Author: openmindontravel

Rock Of Cashel.

On my final tour of the year as a tour director with Trafalgar tours ( see Trafalgar Homepage ) we had the pleasure of visiting the Rock Of Cashel towards the end of the tour. This is a very interesting site and has huge significance for the people of Ireland, and particularly the people of Munster right to this day.

Munster is the southern province of Ireland and one of the four ancient Kingdoms of Ireland. The King of Munster sat here and ruled from the Rock of Cashel probably from the fourth century until the 12th century when the O Brien’s gifted the rock to the church. According to our tour guide on the day, this was done really to deter the rival McCarthy dynasty from establishing a claim to the Rock of Cashel. However, it is worth remembering that this was also when the Norman conquest of Ireland was happening. In any event the church made full use of the site and built many beautiful buildings in the ensuing years including a cathedral.

The Rock stands as an iconic, dominating presence in the local area with great views extening in to the sorrounding countryside. It is easy to see why it held such significance for the people of Munster in times past and indeed it still stands as a powerful monument. It is known by locals simply as ” the Rock” and even viewing it from afar, it has a strong impact has a powerful monument with a rich history.

Buildings @ The Rock Of Cashel

Among the prominent structures at the Rock of Cashel is the iconic Round Tower, a cylindrical edifice standing over 28 meters tall. Built in the 12th century, the tower served various purposes, including as a bell tower, a place of refuge, and a symbol of ecclesiastical authority.

The stand out building is probably Cormac’s Chapel, an architectural gem dating back to the 12th century. Built in the Romanesque style, it is only available for private tours which need to be booked in advance. According to our tour guide on the day, access is limited as having many people breathing in the indoor space was doing damage to the plaster work and intricate carvings inside it, following a recent renovation. . Along with intricate carvings and a featuring a barrel-vaulted ceiling it also houses the renowned Cormac’s Cross, an elaborately decorated high cross.

The Cathedral, another notable structure, showcases a mix of Gothic and Romanesque elements. Constructed in the 13th century, the cathedral bears witness to the changing architectural styles over the centuries. Our guide on the day told as the horrowing story of the massacre of Catholic soldiers and civilians by Cromwell’s army in the mid 17th century.

Adjacent to the cathedral is the High Cross, a masterpiece of Celtic artistry with detailed biblical scenes and intricate carvings. These Celtic crosses are a beautiful symbol of Celtic Chrisianity enclosing the Christian cross inside a circle which symbolises the circle of nature and of life. These high crosses, scattered throughout the site, offer a glimpse into the craftsmanship and distinctive Celtic flavour of Irish Christianity in the medieval period. The Hall of the Vicars Choral, a 15th-century structure, adds further architectural diversity with its Gothic design.

The multifaceted architecture of the Rock of Cashel reflects its evolution through different eras and the amalgamation of various architectural styles. Each building tells a story of religious, cultural, and political significance, contributing to the historical tapestry of Ireland. Visiting the Rock of Cashel is a journey through time, where these remarkable structures stand as enduring testaments to Ireland’s rich and complex heritage.

Rock Of Cashel and Cromwellian campaign:

The Rock of Cashel, a historic fortress in Ireland, played a significant role during Cromwell’s campaign in the mid-17th century. In 1649, Oliver Cromwell led the Parliamentarian forces in the Irish Confederate Wars, a conflict fueled by religious and political tensions. The Rock of Cashel, perched atop a limestone hill, became a strategic stronghold contested between Cromwell’s army and the Irish Confederate and Royalist forces.

Cromwell’s campaign was marked by a ruthless determination to suppress Royalist and Catholic resistance. The Rock of Cashel, a symbol of medieval Irish kingship and ecclesiastical power, represented a formidable obstacle for Cromwell’s forces. In 1649, the Parliamentarians besieged the fortress, eventually leading to its surrender. The capture of the Rock of Cashel was a pivotal moment in Cromwell’s conquest of Ireland.

The campaign reflected the broader dynamics of the time, where religious conflicts intertwined with political struggles. Cromwell’s military strategies emphasized siege warfare, and the fall of significant strongholds like the Rock of Cashel contributed to the ultimate subjugation of Ireland by the Parliamentarians. The aftermath of Cromwell’s campaign included widespread land confiscations and political upheaval, leaving a lasting impact on the socio-political landscape of Ireland.

The Rock of Cashel, witness to centuries of Irish history, stood as a symbol of resistance during Cromwell’s campaign, yet its capture represented a turning point in the broader context of the Irish Confederate Wars. The events surrounding the Rock of Cashel serve as a testament to the complex interplay of religion, politics, and military strategy during this tumultuous period in Ireland’s history.

Religious and spiritual significance of The Rock of Cahel today:

The tour finished amonst the gravestones which adorn the site adjacent to the Cathedral. This is a common feature of these type of monuments in Ireland today. Often the ruins of old monasteries and churches were used as burial grounds in medieval times. While it strikes the modern eye as odd to do this, I think we need to make an imaginative leap in to the medieval mind to understand this. These would have been considered sacred sites to locals and in a time before complex planning proceedures and indeed mass tourism, we can view them as a testament to the spiritual significance that the local people bestowed on them.

I was amazed to learn that a body was interred in a grave there as recently as 2019. This is because the locals who have family buried there are permitted to continue using it.

The Rock itself is associated with both the church of Ireland ( protestant) and Catholic communities nowadays. It’s spiritual significance to the people of Ireland is largely as a symbol of the days when we had our own provincial Kingdoms and the Gaelic aristocracy held sway. The Cromwelian massacre is also widely remembered as one of a series of atrocities associated with the Cromwelian campaign.

It’s appearance on the landscape is arresting and stands as a powerful landmark dominating the area. One can instantly understand how it became the focal point for both secular and spiritual power over the generations and why it was an important site during the Cromwellian campaigns. It is well worth visiting. On the occasions I have been here, I have been impressed with the tour guides.


My Visit to the Jameson Distillery in Midleton, Cork

( please note Jameson Middleton Distillery is currently closed ( November 2023) due to flooding in October 2023 ( see https://www.jamesonwhiskey.com/en-ie/visit-our-distilleries/midleton-distillery-cork/# for current updates)

Whiskey Jokes

Here are a couple of whiskey jokes to get us started. This first one is one i like to tell on tour –

Mikey emigrated from Ireland to New York and gets a job working in construction. No matter where he is working in the city however, he always found his way to Molly’s his favourite Irish pub in the city and invariably orders three whiskies. The first time he does this, the barman asks him why he is ordering three whiskies to which he replies – ” when I left Ireland I promised my two brothers id have a whiskey for each of them every day while we all still live” – this goes on for fifty years. And then one Thursday evening Mikey shows up and orders two whiskies. Im terribly sorry says the barman, did something happen to one of your brothers. – “Ah no”, says Mikey,” Ive decided to quit drinking”

and on a more subtle ( adn slightly surreal note

Whiskey is like a good friend. It’s always there for you, especially when you need it the most – like after a hard day dealing with people

Enough jokes – onwards and upwards and sideways with the blog

My Visit to Jameson ( finally)


As a tour guide it is my pleasure and privelidge to visit many of the attractions in Ireland. Having worked in tourism for over ten years now, I have visited the Jameson distillery a few times but actually not for a number of years. So naturally I was delighted to be back. To be honest ( and to my shame), it was also my first time doing the tour. On previous occasions, I was too tied up with paper work to take the tour. It is remarkable I hadn’t done the tour previously however, as Jameson is only a half an hour from where i live in Cork. Typical of us tour guide’s to ignore our own back yards !

Anyway, I must say I thoroughly enjoyed the tour. I do enjoy the occasional whiskey and the history of the brewery is fascinating as it links the agricultural and industrial history of Ireland. Our guide was excellent and I must say I approve of the human touch. If I was to compare it with the Guinness Storehouse for example which is also a wonderful visitor experience ( you can read my review here), it can occasionally be a little impersonal. Having a dedicated guide for our group ( of about 40) added a welcome personal touch. The guide was affable, friendly and knowledgeable and gave a great tour encompassing both the history of the brewery and he was also very knowledgeable about the contemporary brewery which of course continues to export Irish whiskey all over the world

Morning whiskey ( or two)

This was also my last tour of the season and I was getting on great with the group so I was really in the mood to enjoy the experience. While I have always regarded an afternoon pint as a rare joy, lending a transcendant , perhaps even giddy, edge to a winters afternoon, the morning whiskey is something I have not really accustomed myself too ( and probably shouldn’t !). In reality I didn’t consume that much whiskey but it still threw a pleasant glow on the morning. ( I probably shoulda had breakfast though!)

The whiskies were, of course, delicious and delectable. In the tasting we sampled three different whiskies. If I remember correctly they were Jameson black barrel, a midleton and a red breast. My favourite was probably the Jameson. There was also an included whiskey at the end of the tour.

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The tour itself

We started with a tour of the old distillery which was interesting and informative. We learned about the mashing of the barley, the fermentation and the multiple distillations required to make whiskey. The aging process was also expertly described by our guide.

It was interesting to learn that the site was chosen as the main distillery due to the barley that can be grown successfully in the south east of Ireland. While Ireland has a reputation as a rainy country, this part of Ireland is known as the sunny south east and enjoys a sunnier, drier climate than the West coast in particular, and is ideal for growing barley.

We finished up with a little whiskey tasting as mentioned above.

History of the distillery

The Jameson Distillery in Midleton, County Cork, Ireland, is an iconic establishment with a rich history dating back over two centuries. Its story is intertwined with the history of Irish whiskey itself, making it a landmark in the world of spirits.

The story of the Jameson Distillery begins in 1780 when John Jameson, a Scottish lawyer, acquired the Bow Street Distillery in Dublin. John Jameson’s vision and commitment to producing high-quality whiskey laid the foundation for the success of the Jameson brand. In 1820, the Bow Street Distillery began distilling its famous triple-distilled whiskey, a practice that continues at Midleton today.

As the popularity of Jameson Irish whiskey grew, so did the need for expansion. In the late 18th century, to accommodate increased production and better access to quality ingredients, John Jameson’s son, John Jameson II, made the pivotal decision to move the distillery from Dublin to Midleton, County Cork. This move to Midleton allowed for greater access to the region’s exceptional barley and pure water, essential ingredients in whiskey production.

By the 19th century, Jameson had become one of the largest and most reputable distilleries in Ireland. The Midleton distillery grew in size and sophistication, incorporating modern equipment and techniques while maintaining the traditional craftsmanship that defines Irish whiskey. This approach played a significant role in setting Jameson apart from other whiskey producers.

In 1966, the Midleton Distillery became the hub for all Jameson production, uniting the various distilleries owned by the Irish Distillers Group. This move was a crucial step in consolidating Jameson’s position as a leading Irish whiskey brand and ensuring the whiskey’s consistent quality and flavor.

Throughout the years, the Midleton Distillery has continued to innovate. It introduced several new expressions of Jameson, including Jameson Black Barrel, Jameson Caskmates, and Redbreast Irish whiskey, which have garnered acclaim from whiskey enthusiasts around the world. The distillery is also responsible for producing other well-known Irish whiskey brands like Powers and Green Spot.

In 1988, the Jameson Experience visitor center was established at the Midleton Distillery, opening its doors to the public. This provided an opportunity for whiskey enthusiasts to learn about the history and production process of Jameson Irish whiskey. The visitor center offers guided tours, tastings, and interactive exhibits, making it a popular destination for tourists and whiskey aficionados.

In recent years, Jameson has continued to expand its global reach, becoming one of the most recognized Irish whiskey brands worldwide. Its success can be attributed to the commitment to traditional methods, quality ingredients, and the pioneering spirit that began with John Jameson in the 18th century.

Today, the Jameson Distillery in Midleton, Cork, stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Irish whiskey production. It combines history, innovation, and craftsmanship, allowing visitors to experience the heritage and flavor of this iconic Irish spirit. The Midleton Distillery remains at the heart of the Jameson brand, producing exceptional whiskey that is cherished and celebrated by people across the globe.

Visiting Jameson Distillery

Jameson Distellery is located in Middleton about a half an hour drive from Cork city. If you are driving between Cork and Waterford it makes for a very convenient and pleasant stop. There is also a train service to Midleton from Cork city and a good bus service too. Tours ( with tasting) available from 26Euro but please note Jameson Middleton is currently closed due to flooding in October 2023

Traveling to Ireland

If you do wish to travel to Ireland, do consider a coach tour with Trafalgar tours. This is the company that I work with. Coach tours are fun, convenient and great value.

Check out the link below

Trafalgar Homepage

My falconry experience in Dingle, Ireland

As a tour guide with Trafalgar Tours ( see Trafalgar Homepage ) and Insight Vacations it was my pleasure and privelidge to bring a group to Kingdom Faconry near Dingle town in Kerry, Ireland. This particular tour was with insight Vacations. It was a wonderful experience for everyone and i was delighted to take full part in the experience. The experience was led by Eric Witkowski who is originally Polish but has lived in Ireland for over 18 years.

He has a clear and strong passion for the birds and the art of falconry and he led the experience with impressive and pleasantly understated skill and ease. You can hear a lovely interview with Eric here curtesy of Radio Kerry https://www.radiokerry.ie/podcasts/travels-through-a-kingdom/eric-witkowski-travels-through-a-kingdom-327249

The experience was held at Miltown house on the outskirts of Dingle which was a very pleasant setting on the banks of the ocean at Dingle Bay. We were shown a wonderful array of birds including owls, hawks and falcons. We had the oppertunity to be up close and personal with many of the birds and the demonstrations were very impressive.

The highlight for me was having the birds on my arm and having that sort of encounter with a bird of prey was wonderfully unnerving, arresting and refreshing. It was a real break from the mundane confines of our typical lives and the experience really stuck with me.

It was interesting to hear that the falcons have eyesight nine times better than humans and that owls have exceptional hearing. It was also very special to see the relationship between Eric and the birds.


History of Falconry

Falconry’s historical roots extend into antiquity, with evidence of its practice dating back thousands of years. Its origins can be traced to different regions around the world, each contributing to the development and diversification of this ancient art.

1. Origins in Asia: Falconry is believed to have originated in Central Asia and the Middle East. In ancient Mesopotamia, there are cuneiform tablets that depict scenes of falconry dating back to around 2000 BC. The practice soon spread to China, where it was highly regarded, and emperors and nobility actively participated in falconry.

2. Medieval Europe: Falconry gained immense popularity in medieval Europe, particularly during the 9th to 17th centuries. It was not only a sport but a symbol of prestige and nobility. Kings and knights often engaged in falconry, and a complex system of ranks and titles for falconers emerged.

3. Influence of Islam: The Islamic world played a significant role in the development of falconry. The Arabic treatise, “The Book of the Falcon,” written by the Persian philosopher Ibn Hayyan in the 9th century, is one of the earliest comprehensive works on falconry. It was later translated into Latin and contributed to the spread of falconry in Europe.

4. Medieval Treatises: Several treatises and manuals on falconry were written during the Middle Ages, contributing to the preservation and spread of knowledge about the art. One of the most famous is “The Book of Saint Albans” by Juliana Berners, which was published in 1486 and addressed the rules and etiquette of falconry.

5. Far Eastern Influence: In Japan, the art of falconry was known as “takagari” and was practiced by the samurai class. In Mongolia, falconry remains an integral part of nomadic culture, particularly among the Kazakh people, who continue to hunt with golden eagles.

6. Decline and Revival: With the advent of firearms and changing social structures, falconry declined in popularity during the 17th century. However, it saw a resurgence in the 19th and 20th centuries as enthusiasts sought to preserve this ancient tradition. Organizations and clubs dedicated to falconry were established worldwide to promote its practice and ensure the welfare of raptors.

7. UNESCO Recognition: In 2010, UNESCO recognized falconry as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, acknowledging its cultural significance and the need to safeguard this tradition for future generations.

Falconry’s history is a fascinating journey through time, highlighting its role as a symbol of prestige, its influence on art and literature, and its adaptation to changing societal norms. Today, falconry continues to captivate people with its deep-rooted traditions and the enduring partnership between humans and raptors, connecting the past with the present.

Halloween – where it came from ( and a few jokes)

Let’s start with a joke – my kid wanted to dress up as a ghost – i told him not to waste money on a custume and just wear a white sheet. Without missing a beat he said – ” dad, your brilliant “

ok, so the history of halloween –

Samhain

Halloween is rooted in the ancient Gaelic festival known as Samhain. It was one of four Gaelic festivals which punctuated the year at the cross quarter points between the solstices and the equinoxes. These four festivals are

  1. Imbolc ( between the winter solstice and the Spring equinox),
  2. Bealtaine ( between the spring equinox and Summer solstice)
  3. Lunasa ( between the summer solstice and autumn equinox)
  4. Samhain ( between the spring equinox and winter solstice)

Samhain is definitely the one which is best survived in to modern times and serves as the origin for halloween. To really get a feel for halloween we need to imagine being in Ireland hundreds of years ago entering the dark side of the year. Ireland , despite its temperate climate , is at a fairly extreme latitude and experiences only seven hours of daylight on the winter solstice. It is obvious to point out the lack of electricity and modern entertainments but worth contemplating the effect this dearth of light and modern conveniences would have on peoples minds.

My feeling is that people would have become more at one with the winter season. The mind would harmonise with the cold, dark sorrounds and at the same time the dependence on and interdependance with the community would have been keenly felt and celebrated. The sense of the other world becoming close and the ancestors drawing in would dominate as the seasons turned.

It seems to me that the magical and mystical element to Halloween was almost certainly stimulated by the easy availability of the psilocybin containing mushroom psilocybe semilanceata coloquilly known as the liberty cap in farmers fields around this time of year. While most people in Ireland today are relatively unaware of its easy availability and its use would still be frowned upon and illegal, it seems obvious to me that a rural peasantry, frequently pushed to the verge of starvation would have had knowledge of every type of mushroom and its effects and this would surely have included the liberty cap, which grows relatively abundently in the open fields where animals graze.

Halloween today

While many cultures have a similar festival on the precipice of winter, for example, the Mexican day of the dead, most of the traditions we associate with halloween are Irish customs which travelled with Irish emigrants to America, mostly in the late 19th century in the years following the great famine.

These include “trick or treating”, bobbing for apples and indeed carving pumpkins, although in Ireland it was turnips that were carved in to candle holders. The ancient Gaelic festival of Samhain would also have included communal bonfires and the wearing of costumes. Of course there was also the church involvement as they created ” all saints day” and ” all souls day” on November 1 and 2 respectively, in an effort to appropriate and influence the festivities.

So as you celebrate Halloween this year, remember that it is an ancient marking point towards the winter, a time of potential hardship and community interdependance but also marking a time of community abundance at harvest time. It is a time also perhaps to be humble about the otherworld and stay open to life’s mysteries and wonder. May you have an abundant and joyous celebration !

Reasons to visit Ireland in 2024

( note: this site contains an affiliate links which means if you click through to the website from this address and subsequently make a purchase I may be eligible for a small payment.)

As a travel director with Trafalgar tours (see Trafalgar Homepage ), it is my pleasure to introduce Ireland to visitors from all over the world. Frequently, these guests have a shared heritage and culture whose ancestors left here over the preceding generations. But more recently, as often as not, this isn’t the case. Modern Ireland is a confident world leader in the realm of music, culture, and technology and draws guests from all over the world who are intrigued by our rich culture and thriving cities. Here, I share some of the reasons to visit Ireland, whether you have Irish heritage or not.

1. Cool, temperate Climate

Often guests come with an expectation that their visit to Ireland is going to be, from a meteorological point of view, a rain-soaked and dreary experience with half the crack (fun) involving avoiding the rain in cosy pubs and cafés. While this really wouldn’t be the worst description of what can happen on a bad day, the truth is that the Irish climate has much to recommend it.

In high summer, many people traveling from warm parts of America are usually delighted with the cool, temperate climate which they find invigorating and revitalizing. Another truth is that it doesn’t rain that much! It is actually very rare for it to rain all day. What is more common is a showery day punctuated by long dry spells and if you are lucky, a bit of sunshine. We also get beautiful long, sunny evenings here in high summer. The downside of the climate here is not so much the rain but the grey skies, which can dominate at certain times of the year. In the winter, when daylight is short, this can be dreary for sure, so come in the summer or autumn when the days are longer and there is a better chance of sunshine. I usually recommend May to September as the optimum time to visit. Remember that unlike continental Europe, it is rarely too hot here for comfort.

Another aspect of the weather that is undeniable is its unpredictability and variability. But, in truth, this adds a bit of spice and variety to our days and our conversations. We are always happy to talk about the weather and have our unique way of talking about it – whether it is “soft days (cloudy, mild)”, “pelting rain” or “baltic (cold)”, we like to bring ourselves to terms with the weather with a sort of endearing and poetic phrasing that reflects and creates a sort of frustrating but genuine love for the capricious but relatively steadfast mood of the elements around us.

As regards the weather and its impact on outdoor activities such as jogging, cycling, hiking, surfing etc. suffice it to say that you can usually engage in these activities most days. You certainly are not guaranteed glorious sunshine at any time of year but it is rare that you will be rained out of it either. With no real snow and ice, few thunderstorms and generally mild, moderate temperatures year round there is no good excuse not to get out and about. Even on a bad day you can usually time it to get our for a cycle or a run when it is dry. The one exception to this would be hiking when it can be dangerous to go hiking in the mountains in cold or rainy weather or on the shorter, winter days when it gets dark early.

2) Jovial Culture

The joviality of Irish culture is a defining feature of the nation. It’s no exaggeration to say that the Irish are among the most convivial and friendly people on the planet. We have an open attitude towards visitors and are happy to welcome people who come here to holiday, to study, or to work. Many visitors are indeed surprised at the level of immigration here, and while this is a controversial topic throughout the world at the moment, I will simply make the observation that the Irish have been very welcoming to people from all over the world and add the hope that this friendly, open, tolerant, and welcoming spirit will continue to be shared by the new arrivals.

What’s the crack ?

Crack (sometimes spelled craic) is a word that is used throughout Ireland to denote fun and merriment. I know it has other meanings elsewhere! We use it all the time. “What’s the crack?” is a common greeting in the West of Ireland. “Good crack” means a good atmosphere, etc. The word itself is actually of English origin but more frequently used in Ireland these days. Most Irish people regard it as an Irish word and insist on spelling it “craic,” but its origins in middle English were “crak,” meaning loud conversation or boastful talk. However, we are claiming it now!

Irish culture at its best aims to celebrate each day and enjoy every interaction as a rewarding and enriching experience. But remember that we are also a modern culture with the attendant stresses, strains, and distractions. We are probably not generally as time-rich as we once were, and in Dublin, in particular, you may feel despondent not to encounter the timeless aura of a simpler time. So be it. You can still find people who aim to enjoy every day and savour personal interactions in a way you are unlikely to find anywhere else in the world.

3. Exceptional Music

Music has always been at the heart of Ireland’s culture and sense of pride and identity. Even the English chronicler Giraldus, writing in the 12th century amidst many disdainful observations of the Irish people, commented on the skillfulness of the Irish musicians and the rich musical culture he encountered here on his travels: “Ireland, I affirm, abounds more in the musical art than any other culture in the world.”

This love of music continues to the present. While traditional Irish music continues to go from strength to strength since the advent of shows such as Riverdance and Lord of the Dance in the 1990’s, the rich and thriving traditional music scene is augmented with other types of music also. While Dublin, Galway and Cork boast a strong rock/pop tradition the country towns boast a strong “country and Irish” scene which is a mix of American country and Irish folk. Get chatting to any Irish person and I am nearly certain that they will be passionate about some band or musical genre. Music goes deep here !

4. The “scenery” (aka nature)

Nature is beautiful everywhere, Of course, we like to consider ourselves the central charachter in the epic tale we consider to be our lives while nature takes a back seat. It’s nice if it’s pretty but it often feels like just background. In Ireland , for whatever reason, it doesn’t feel like that. If seems that the countryside interposes itself onto your mind with surprising strength. The beautifully managed farmers’ fields amidst the desolate western coastline in the burren for example brings a calm sense of wonder. The Cliffs of Moher offer a wild open window on the seething Atlantic that can humble the sense of self and speaks to me of another world – across, on or under the ocean, not to mention the world of the seagulls whose world this is.

There is also tremendous variety. Lakes, rivers, and waterfalls are tucked away in every corner of the island. The serene beauty of Killarney’s lakes, the tranquility of the River Shannon, and the enchanting Powerscourt Waterfall are just a few examples of the country’s natural treasures. Meanwhile the otherworldly landscapes of the Burren and the Giant’s Causeway spark the imagination, leaving visitors feeling as if they’ve stepped into a land of myth and legend.

Conclusion

Visiting Ireland is a sensory experience like no other. Its vivid greenery, striking coastlines, and the allure of its bustling cities and lively towns make it a destination that caters to all tastes. Whether you’re captivated by the scenic beauty, the thriving jovial culture, the resonant melodies of Irish music, or the rich tapestry of contemporary Irish life, Ireland’s unique appeal is a testament to its enduring and ever-evolving charm. In a world that constantly changes, Ireland remains a timeless treasure waiting to be explored.

I can highly recommend travelling with Trafalgar tours with whom I work as a travel director. For the best possible deals with Trafalgar please see

Trafalgar Homepage

Lakes Hotel Killarney – A review

We spent three very enjoyable nights here in August. The ambition was to ditch the car for a few days and just enjoy the hotels and enjoy the beautiful sorroundings. The Lakes hotel sits on the shore of Loch Leanne and their is easy walking access to Muckross house and gardens. For more ambitious hikers both Torc mountain and Mangerton are also within hiking distance of the hotel.

The location is a a huge part of the attraction with this hotel. The easy access to the shore of the hotel makes for a beautiful bar area. On the first night we had a lovely dinner here. The food was good and the service was efficient if a little lacking in friendliness. This lack of friendliness from some staff was more than made up for by other staff members later in the stay. The barman gave us free coffees as guests of the hotel and engaged in friendly chats also.

We had a lovely stroll around the grounds on the first day also and up towards Muckross house. The weather was beautiful also and we enjoyed a lovely relaxing evening.

I took some time to enjoy the mountains during our stay also. Mountain running is a hobby of mine and I enjoyed the jog to the base of the mountain and the the run up and down. I am well familiar with Mangerton mountain, having spend a lot of time here over the years and it was a real pleasure to be able to jog there from the hotel. Weather was great too ! I elected to drive to Torc on the final day of our stay here , although hiking or jogging would have been possible. I had another lovely day jogging on the mountain in what was one of our hottest days of the Summer.

On our final evening we also sampled the fine dining, available here at The Lakes Hotel. The food was absolutely delicious. I had Guinea Fowl and Liana had duck. Starters were impressive too. I had a rich array of sea food and Liana had goats cheese. Desert was an orange souffle for me. I would absolutely recommend sampling the fine dining here. It was a real treat.

The rooms are lovely in an old fashioned way. There are a variety of room types available. We stayed in a simple room with lovely views over the lakes. There was no air conditioning, which didn’t bother us, despite the warm weather. It did mean we had to keep the curtains closed during the day however.

The bar had some nice live music on the Saturday night and some piano music on the Friday. The bar itself is very pleasant with a very pleasant veranda opening out on to the lakes.

Breakfast was nice with a mix of menu items and a buffet. I ordered deilicious kippers both morning and a generous helping from the buffet. The breakfast was in the dining hall where the fine dining was also served. The decor is old fashioned and the hotel overall retains a sense of old world charm that I find rare in hotels these days.

The hotel itself is still owned by the Huggard family who have been pioneers in Irish tourism for well over a hundred years. They are previous owners of Ashford Castle and Ballinahinch Castle continue to operate and own and operate the Butler Arms Hotel in Waterville.

Dunguire Banquet, Kinvara

As a travel director with trafalgar tours(Trafalgar Homepage), I had the pleasure of experiencing the banquet in Kinvara six times during the Summer. I also got to know the team of performers at Dunguire banquet who are lovely people as well as excellent professionals.

The banquet itself starts with a welcome drink of honeyed wine known as mead, accompanied by a fun musical performance of singing and harp music. The mead is an unusual and to my taste delicious drink. It is composed of white wine sweetened with honey. The music is very pleasant and the performance is playfull. The history of the castle is gently retold in singing verse and guests are introduced along with a King and Queen for the evening chosen from amongst the guests.

After this the guests are brought up the stairs. Do be aware that there is no lift; all guests must ascend the spiral staircase which consists of two flights of stairs. Having said this, I never had any guest who was unable to ascend the stairs. But do be aware that if you do have mobility issues with a stairs, you will not be able to partake. 





















Having ascended the stairs, there is some more castle history along with some traditional and locally flavoured toasts before the meal is served. The meal is in four courses and while dietary restrictions can be accomodated with notice prior to the event, for obvious reasons, the castle uses outside caterers and there is no menu choice. The first course is smoked salmon ( with melon as an alternative), the next course is potato and leak soup, the main course is chicken and vegetables and the desert is apple tart ( apple pie). While there is little choice regards the food; it is good wholesome, healthy fare and consistently of good quality. The performers themselves act as waiters/waitresses so the main performance begins once the meal is ended. Of course, the meal is accompanied by generous jugs of white and red wine that will be refilled as necessary. Wine is the only drink available, probably due to our licensing laws here in Ireland.





The performance has a literary theme and traces the literary heritage of both Ireland and the local area with references to the last great Gaelic poet – Raftery and the Irish language writer Padraig O Conaire as well as more well known names such as James Joyce, William Butler Yeates, Synge and Gogerty. St Kevin, associated with Glendalough is also references in the early part of the show along with Colman Mac Duath, a local saint with associations in the area. 










The show aims towards fun and humour and there is plenty of fun audience interaction. While many of the writers referenced would be unknown to foreign audiences, they are introduced in simple and interesting terms and there is no doubt the audience member would be left with an enriching sense that they have been familiarised with our literary heritage in a fun, playful manner. Musically, the show is carried by excellent harp playing and the voices which carry very well in the castle acoustics. The castle is small and intimate and can accommodate between 50-80 guests I would estimate. The audience is always a mix of individuals and groups and the atmosphere is always very good.










I would highly recommend this banquet as a fun evening if you are in the area. It is a fun and enriching experience and the food is decent and wholesome. 





Dunguire Castle





The castle’s history dates back to the 16th century when it was built by the Hynes clan, a strong family and clan in the region. The construction of Dunguire Castle was initiated by the Hynes clan chief, Hynes Mor, and the castle was completed in 1520. Its primary purpose was to serve as a defensive fortress during a turbulent period in Ireland’s history.





The architecture of Dunguire Castle is a classic example of the tower house design, a common style of medieval castles in Ireland. The castle stands three stories high, with thick stone walls and a defensive battlement on the top. The stonework and masonry are impressive, showcasing the craftsmanship of the builders of that era. The tower house design provided both protection for the inhabitants and a commanding view of the surrounding landscape.





It makes for an intimate concert venue with outstanding accoustics negating the need for amplification, a welcome relief in our modern world !  The banquet runs from April to October every year.





Throughout its history, Dunguire Castle changed hands several times, passing from the Hynes clan to the Martyns and eventually falling into disrepair. In the early 20th century, the castle was purchased by Oliver St. John Gogarty, a notable Irish writer and surgeon. Gogarty began the extensive restoration of the castle, helping to preserve its historical significance.





The castle was also the residence of the mayor of Galway, Richard Martyn in the early 17th century.










It makes for an intimate concert venue with outstanding accoustics negating the need for amplification, a welcome relief in our modern world !  The banquet runs from April to October every year.





 



















   

							

		
	





				
					



	

	


		
		

			

				A visit to Glendalough
			

		


					

				













 


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Glendalaugh is a beautiful valley in the heart of Wicklow. It is famed both for its monastic heritage and natural beauty. I have been there many times as a tour guide but I wanted to visit myself to explore the hiking trails more extensively.


We had a beautiful sunny morning to explore the hiking trails and the beautiful scenery. The beautiful winter sunlight and cool, windless day gave us a glimpse of Glendalaugh at its peaceful, tranquil best.









There is an air of contentment and ease about the place on mornings like this that is irresistable. The water in the lakes was still and gave a beautiful mirror like surface to the splendid valley. The clear sky and winter sun lent a majestic, generous light. I always find sunny, winter days to be magical. There is a preciousness about that brilliant, winter light that is absent in the longer summer days and the cooler air invites more vigorous exercise. But there is no real cold here yet. Our mild autumn had not yet given way to winter.


So a perfect day for a hike !






 


 





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With the luxury of time, we were able to explore the longer white trail around both lakes, which gives way to a steeper climb towards the further reaches of the valley and then returns along the cliff, giving beautiful views of the lakes at the heart of the valley.


Glendalaugh is named after these two gorgeous lakes., from the Irish Gleann an dha locha which translates as the Glen of the two lakes. It is very much associated with St. Kevin who lived as a contemplative saint and mystic here in the golden age of Celtic Christianity in the 6th century.


He did have a moody and perhaps even murderous side to him however ! St. Kevin was a famously handsome and charismatic figure and it seems that his quest for a silent, contemplative life were constantly interrupted by a local population that was in thrall to his ways. Young women were particularly persistent and most persistent of all was a young lady by the name of Kathleen of the green eyes. Undeterred by Kevins rejection of her, she continued to pursue him until one day in a fit of rage Kevin threw her into the lake where she drowned.


The valley went on to host a large and important monastic community right through the glory days of Irelands monastic tradition when Ireland gained a reputation as Europe’s premier seat of learning and scholarship in the 9th, 10th and 11th centuries. During this time much of Europe was in a chaotic state following the decline of the Roman Empire and Irelands relative isolation, peace and respect for learning allowed the monasteries to become repositories of learning and scholarship during this era. Indeed scholars flocked from all over Europe monasteries such as Glendalaugh during this time.


Much of the original monastic settlement remains including the entrance way, the round tower, St.Kevin’s kitchen, a beautiful Celtic cross. All her bathed in myths, legends and stories. For example, it is said that if the central archway falls down, then armegeddon will follow in seven days.


The round tower is a particularly well preserved and impressive construction dating from the 11th century and is one of the finest preserved round towers of its era. It served as both a beacon and a look out tower, allowing pilgrims to locate the monastery and allowing the monks to keep a watchful eye on the surrounding country also.


While, St. Kevin’s kitchen is also nicely preserved, overall we are talking about the ruins of an old settlement. Imagination is essential in bringing it to life. You have to imagine the monks, living, working and praying in this beautiful tranquil valley.


The golden age of Glendalough came to an end with its sack by the Anglo Normans in the 12th century and its subsequent union with the Dublin diocese in 1214. It fell into disuse in 1398 following destruction by English forces. It remained an important local church and remained an iconic site for the local population throughout its history right up to the present and indeed their are accounts of riotous celebrations there on the feast of St. Kevin in the 18th and 19th century.


It remains an icon of Celtic spirituality and the serenity of the lakes and their attendant atmosphere remains special right to this day.


 


















































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Alan Coakley is a travel director with Trafalgar tours based in Ireland





							

		
	





				
					



	

	


		
		

			

				Powerscourt House and Gardens
			

		


					

				

While tour guiding, I have the opportunity to visit many of Ireland’s most beautiful and renowned places. That certainly includes Powerscourt house located about an hours drive from Dublin. The gardens are beautifully laid out, proportioned and expertly maintained.





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Powerscourt house is located on the site of an original 13th century castle associated with the anglo Norman De Paor (Power) family. As the power of the Anglo Normans receded in medieval times the castle fell under the control of the Gaelic O Tooles. However as the British asserted their authority over Ireland in the late 16th and early 17th centuries the castle confiscated from the O’Tooles and was gifted to Richard Wingfield in 1603, originally given as a leasehold but eventually transferred in full to the family following Wingfield successful campaigns in Ulster in the Northern part of Ireland against the Gaelic O Doherty clan at the same time that he was given the title Viscount Powerscourt by Elizabeth 1.











The house was constructed around the castle in 1741 by Richard Wingfield also the 1st Viscount Powerscourt. The reason he was also the 1st viscount is that the title lapsed on a few occasions and was reawarded to Richard Wingfield in 1735 and he thus shares the title 1st Viscount of Powerscourt as well as his name  with his 17th century ancestor who was the first 1st viscount of Powerscourt. It took me a while to get my head around it too !










Anyway, the house was constructed between 1730 and 1741 under the stewardship of Richard Cassels who aimed to create a great Italian renaissance villa I the heart of the Wicklow hills. In truth the house and gardens to sit rather incongruously amidst the boggy Wicklow hills. If we were to apply the standards of the present to the conception of the house we could easily criticise the design for failing to draw any inspiration at all from its surroundings. It is a dream of Europe set amidst the Wicklow hills but it is a dream come alive and, indeed, why not draw inspiration from Europe?










A further storey was completed in 1787 and it was further altered and upgraded in the 19th century. It was sold to the Slazenger family (of sportswear fame) in 1961 and the original house sadly burnt down in 1974. Although the grounds were beautifully maintained in the meantime, it wasn’t until 1995 that the house was renovated and reconstructed.





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The house itself boasts some very pleasant gift shops but the cafe (run by Avoca) area was busy and overcrowded and even though I had time on my side I choose to forego my coffee due to the long queue.





For me a particular highlight was the rhodedeneuram garden which were a popular feature for estates this type.





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The tower, which really is a faux tower constructed in 1911   , was also a highlight and afforded beautiful views over the grounds.





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Overall, I really enjoyed my visit to the grounds. It is a soothing, peaceful place to visit and we were blessed with the weather.





The video presentation in the house gives some nice historical detail also. It is worth noting that the waterfall is not in the grounds and located about 6km away and has a separate admission. House and garden (adult prices) is Euro10.50, waterfall Euro6 with day tours also available from Dublin some of which combine a visit to Glendalough also..









Alan Coakley is a Travel Director with Trafalgar tours based in Ireland.





							

		
	





				
					



	

	


		
		

			

				Country Under Wave – An Irish Story
			

		


					

				

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No day in this realm is without its beauty. But it takes a special kind of spirit to appreciate these grey, sunless days of our nascent Spring. “The hungry gap”, it used to be called as winter stocks were depleted and the land  gave little or nothing  amidst the coldest, bleakest months of the year.











Spring is a misnomer here. It’s a slow grind through February, March and April as the days lengthen and light slowly returns to the ascendant as Spring ever so gradually stretches its limbs and wakes up. There is no real heat until May.





The driving rain today is unrelenting and has an angry aspect. It is being driven by a gutsy, gusting wind beneath a translucent, grey sky.





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I regard our weather as a mixed blessing. Blessed by modern convenience, I can be totally at my ease on these grey days living the indoor life. Books, music, cozy fires and pleasant pubs are plenty for me. Of course it is possible to do outdoor activities but any sort of outdoor work or exercise quickly takes on a survivalist, epic atmosphere.





The mind naturally inclines inwards and indoors. In olden times that meant the world of the fireplace and the imagination. It is why the musical and literary traditions are so strong. So much of the old ways are gently shrouded in story and song. As I sit under a wave of rain, wind and general greyness, this story came to mind and I thought to share it. I have decided against going to a source material and will instead allow the story to spill and take whatever shape it takes in this strange vessel we call the written word.





Many thousands of years ago, in the land that is now Ireland, but before, and long before there was any strange notion or concept of “country” or a “nation-state”, there was a wise woman, a wise man and their three children living on the shores of a beautiful, abundant lake in the West of Ireland. The woman of the house Máire, was in fact a skilled herbalist. So when her husband, Aodh, fell gravely ill, at first she was not worried, confident that the land around her contained the medicine he needed. 





But…………………….her best efforts failed. Then one night her eldest son, Tomás had an aisling (visionary dream) in which it was revealed to him that on the eve of Smahain ( Halloween), he could jump through the surface of the lake and encounter a magical country at the bottom of the lake wherein it was possible, although very difficult, to obtain the knowledge of how to heal his father. He was told that if he could travel through this magical land for a year, he would encounter the hazelnuts of knowledge near the enchanted well in a clearing in the forest. The land was known as the realm under wave.





He told all this to his mother, who, while deeply conflicted about this dangerous journey bid him to go and do his best. So on the eve of Samhain, he went out to the lake. Whilst making this journey he encountered two Sidh (fairy people) who gave him two further pieces of advice. The first told him that he must never tell a lie in the realm under wave. The second told him, that no matter how tempted he was, he must not spend more than one night under any one roof. If he was to do any of these things, a great misfortune would befall him and he would not return to the land of his people. 





Taking all this on board, Tomás, who was naturally a brave boy, jumped into the lake and swam towards the bottom of the lake. While the water was icy at first, it quickly warmed up to a pleasant temperature, so that after a few moments of swimming, he felt like he was taking a warm bath. It was also strangely lit under the water and by some strange magic, he was also able to breathe. Presently, he came to the realm under wave. 





It was indeed the magical land of his dreams. The sun shone eternally, the trees were forever in blossom and gave fruit and nuts and beauty with such abundance that Tomás spent three whole days solidly staring at them in wonderment. When he finally tasted of the fruit and nuts, they were the finest foods he had ever known. He knew immediately that this was a country in which no-one would ever want. He wandered for a full sixty days and nights without meeting a soul. But, strangely, he never felt lonely or even a little bit sad. He noted that his emotions were always positive, his mind always clear and his thoughts steady. And despite all this, he remembered his purpose well and was never tempted to think of remaining there in that wonderful place.  





And then after 60 days and nights, of eating the most delicious fruits and nuts and sleeping the perfect, peaceful, blissfull sleeps under the open skies and experiencing nothing but happiness he encountered some of the inhabitants of the land.





They came upon him as a group but Tomás was not scared. Somehow their peace descended upon him even before he met them. When he laid eyes on them, he saw that they were the most beautiful people he had ever seen. The men and women were tall and stately and looked just like people in our world but each carried an inner glow that was somehow visible to Tomás. By some strange magic he could observe their inner qualities such as virtue, generosity and honesty as surely as we can see colours in the world around us.  





Tomás was awe-struck by their presence and it took him a while to speak even after they had greeted him. Presently he was invited to the palace where he spent a glorious evening enjoying the best food, music and company he had ever known. It was all perfect bliss and Tomás was sorely tempted to forget his mission and remain in the palace. Eventually however, he pulled himself together and, remembering the warning not to spend two nights under the one roof, he said his goodbyes, asked for and received directions to the enchanted well and the hazelnut tree of knowledge and made to continue his journey. Just as he was leaving the main door, the King addressed him.





“Did you have a good time ?” asked the king.





” I did indeed”, answered Tomás





“Was it not the finest time you have ever had in your life ?” , asked the King, ” and are we not the finest people in the finest land you have ever encountered ?”, he continued.





Now at this question, Tomás hesitated. He was indeed a good and a loyal man and indeed highly courageous but if he had a fault it was an excess of pride. On hearing the question, he was filled with a defiant and angry pride in his own land, his own people and the good times he had with them. 





” My own people are as fine as any of you, my own land as beautiful and the times we have there are just as good, if not better”, he lied.





And with that he fell under an enchantment. He instantly forgot who he was and why he had come and fell in with the servants at the castle. 





Now back in the land of people, the woman of the house, Máire, grew restless. After her son failed to return on the Samhain of the following year, she considered that she had made the wrong decision in allowing her son go off to the country under wave. 





As her husband grew weaker, she worried that not only would she lose her husband but that she would lose her eldest son also. A deep sadness and despair fell over the whole family. It was such that Conn, the next eldest, decided to go to the Realm under wave to see what had befallen his brother and, of course, with the idea that he too might get the hazelnuts of knowledge and the wisdom of how to cure his father. He knew he wouldn’t get his mother’s permission, seeing how distressed and regretful she was over his brother’s absence, so he went without asking permission, telling only his sister, Aoife, where he was going. 





Conn journeyed into the country under wave much as his brother had done, received the same advice from the fairy people on the way, and encountered the same wonderful world that his brother had encountered. When he encountered the fairy people too, it was much as it had been for his brother and indeed he did not see his brother, who of course, was working as servant there now.





Conn was also a good, loyal son and never forgot his purpose, but if he had one flaw, it was a propensity to over-indulge in the finer things in life. After one magical night in the castle with the inhabitants of that beautiful, perfect land, he simply could not resist another. The music, the food and the company had all been too good. He told himself he would continue his journey after another magical evening in their company. 





But of course after spending a second night under one roof, he fell into the same enchantment as his brother, forgot who he was and why he had come to this land and ended up falling in with the servants in the castle just as his brother had done.





Well, you can imagine the mothers grief with her two sons gone and her husband just about hanging on to life. Aoife, her youngest, and her only daughter,  took one look at her and realised that if she did not go the country under wave, rescue her two brothers and gain the hazelnuts of knowledge, then her mother would not live for much longer either. 





So reluctantly, on the eve of Samhain, she too set out for the country under wave. She too, encountered the same fairy people who gave her the same advice as her brothers and when she encountered the country under wave, she was just as entranced by the beauty of the place as her brothers had been.





She too encountered the fairy people and spent a wonderful evening with them. She even spotted her brothers among the servants and was sad to see that they couldn’t remember who they were or what their purpose was. 





Although sorely tempted, she declined to spend another night at the castle and, as she left, when the King asked her “if this was not the finest land, with the finest people and the finest company she had ever encountered ? ” she answered without lying and without letting her people down either. ” Who is there to compare such things?”  ” things are as they are”. 





The King accepted this and sent her on the right road to the hazelnut tree of knowledge. She gathered the hazelnuts which grew by the well of wisdom. She knew instantly that it was she who must eat the nuts and thereby gain knowledge of, not just how to cure her father, but how to rescue her brothers also. 





After eating the nuts she understood that to heal her brothers and make them remember who they were she would have to sing them their favourite song from childhood. What a happy troop they made as they exited that happy land and swam back to the land of mortals, just as winter was setting in and Samhain passed. 





With the herbal knowledge gained from the hazelnuts of knowledge she was able to heal her father. Her mother too was healed by the happiness of having her family back together. 





Aoife went on to become not just a great healer, but in the fullness of time, became a chieftain and leader of the tribe, ruling by knowledge and virtue.







And just as sadness can leave a mark, so too can happiness, and the three children who had been to the happy realm under wave were known as particularly happy people all their lives. And isn’t that the important thing !




Alan Coakley is a Travel Director with Trafalgar Tours.